Jeu Jan 21, 2010 12:35 pm |
Sujet du message: Suspension question |
Dimeadozen Pegase de Plastique
Inscrit le: 05 Sep 2007 Messages: 65
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I have bought a whole new kit for re doing all my bushings. I am going to do my steering and control arms first as they are very worn. My question is this: Can i just raise the car up and let the control arms hang, then loosen the bolts and hammer out the pins? Or will the spring unload? Should I remove the spring before I do it? Can I remove the pin and bushings whithout taking off the control arm completely? Lastly, how much should I torque the new bolts on once I replace the Control arm pins?
any tips would help. this is the last thing I need to do to get my baby on the road!!! its been 3 years now and I'm getting eager to finish it. _________________ A hammer is an Auto Mechanic's best friend |
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Jeu Jan 21, 2010 7:49 pm |
Sujet du message: |
falcon_ca Pegase de Diamant
Inscrit le: 25 Mai 2007 Messages: 1260
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The spring will dangerously unload.
Place a floor jack under the control arm to compress the suspension, remove the ball joint bolt and separate the ball joint from the control arm. Remove the shock absorber. Slowly lower the suspension, watch out, the spring will unload. Place a large cloth over it, it will prevent it from jumping around.
The easiest way to remove the bushings is to burn them, so you must remove the control arm to remove the bushings.
If you go polyurethane as I did, remember to save the metal sleeve around the old rubber bushing by not removing them from the control arm.
I redone the front suspension on the Sombral last winter, and I completely removed the front cross-member. Easiest way to do a total. You may not do that if you only plan to do the bushings.
Are you doing only the bushing or also the ball joints?
Go and have a loot to my pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.ca/falcon1960/TravauxSurMaPontiacFiero1988Hiver200809?feat=directlink
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Lun Jan 25, 2010 10:31 am |
Sujet du message: Polyurethane kit. |
Dimeadozen Pegase de Plastique
Inscrit le: 05 Sep 2007 Messages: 65
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Hey thanks for the reply.
I did the ball joints already actually.
I must be lucky, because when I pulled the ball joint out I did not remove the spring.
I replaced the lower ball joints and just closed her all back up.
So you are saying, un-fasten the ball joints, then using a jack to lower the control arm, pull the control arm down until the spring pops out... and cover the spring with a cloth so it doesn't fling. Will I be able to get the spring back in after?
I am using the Poly urethane kit and it comes with all new sleeves. Do I still need to save the ones in the control arms? Are they better or just a pain to get out?
This is the last thing I have to do to safety my car and I'l be honest I usually avoid doing anything related to the spring just cus I know how dangerous and hard it can be. But If I get good advice I'll feel confident enough knowing I am doing it right. I have never done this before thats all. I really appreciate the help.
I noticed that the way the control arms are set up, the bottom has two hinges and the top has one long one. I need to do them all and I was not sure if I did one at a time while keeping the others pinned up was a possibility.
If it is easy to remove and replace the spring then I will definitely do that. _________________ A hammer is an Auto Mechanic's best friend |
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Lun Jan 25, 2010 10:33 am |
Sujet du message: NIce photos |
Dimeadozen Pegase de Plastique
Inscrit le: 05 Sep 2007 Messages: 65
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I se what you did and how you lowered the whole front chasis.
I think that is a much better Idea. I can do that.
How hard is it to get the springs back in though?
SHould I be aware of any snags? _________________ A hammer is an Auto Mechanic's best friend |
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Lun Jan 25, 2010 7:44 pm |
Sujet du message: |
falcon_ca Pegase de Diamant
Inscrit le: 25 Mai 2007 Messages: 1260
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Mar Jan 26, 2010 1:34 pm |
Sujet du message: |
Dimeadozen Pegase de Plastique
Inscrit le: 05 Sep 2007 Messages: 65
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Ooooooh it sounds so easy.
Do I need to be aware of any problems that could arise? for example is there any expected difficulty with pulling off the whole system?
how hard is it to separate the steering rack from the column when it all comes down? How heavy is the whole thing when it comes down? can I drag it out myself?
I can't wait for a nice day I'm gonna pull that sucker off.
Thanks again for your help _________________ A hammer is an Auto Mechanic's best friend |
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Mar Jan 26, 2010 2:12 pm |
Sujet du message: Nice Pics |
Dimeadozen Pegase de Plastique
Inscrit le: 05 Sep 2007 Messages: 65
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I looked at your pics too dude.
Those r awesome. I especially like what you did with the Air dams. What was the one you put under the spare tire? did you cut that one to force air over the car? what did you do with the spare after? Or did u just pitch it and go with the new "just bring an inflation kit" lol.
I bought the exact same prothane kit as you and that really helps cus looking at your pics I can actually see where they will all be used.
Once I do the front, I'll figure out how to do the back. Your car looks so good. The scoops you put on the hood and trunk, how are they fastened? did you seal the endges?
your car is so nice. What are your going to do next with it? _________________ A hammer is an Auto Mechanic's best friend |
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Mar Jan 26, 2010 6:59 pm |
Sujet du message: |
falcon_ca Pegase de Diamant
Inscrit le: 25 Mai 2007 Messages: 1260
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You have a lot of questions in a single post
For the cross-member:
Yes it is heavy, but I did mine with my left hand not fully operationnal du to an accident I had in 2008. My fingers do not fold anymore.
To separate the steering column from the rack, only 1 bolt need to be removed and it will slide out.
It is easier and more secure to remove the springs with the cross-member bolted to the car.
About my car:
I put a battery rack under the spare. I will eventually move the battery there. The spare goes right over it, even with the battery in. That will happen when I will install the V8.
Rear scoop bolted thru and then glazzed in the decklid. It is made for 79 Mustang. Very common setup for a Fiero.
Front scoop come from http://fierofiberglass.com. It is fixed using 3M double sided tape.
Projects are:
- Cadillac V8 (in progress: http://picasaweb.google.ca/falcon1960/ProjetFieroV8?feat=directlink)
- Other wheels
- Lambo doors
- Cadillac C4 or C5 leather seats
- T-Top
- Chop top (maybe) |
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Jeu Jan 28, 2010 8:29 am |
Sujet du message: |
Dimeadozen Pegase de Plastique
Inscrit le: 05 Sep 2007 Messages: 65
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wow thats crazy. The chop top looks like a hard core job. I was looking at the process a whle ago out of curiosity. It seems like alot of work and a huge risk cus of potentially compromising the frame to re- design it. I think you know what ur doing tho so you could probably pull it off. I had a friend who made the hgorrible mistake of cutting the roof to make his fiero a convertible. it worked until he went over a road bump and bent is frame almost to the ground. Thats when I realised you have to brace the chassis. Poor guy.
Sounds cool tho, do you take ur car to shows? _________________ A hammer is an Auto Mechanic's best friend |
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Jeu Jan 28, 2010 8:34 pm |
Sujet du message: |
falcon_ca Pegase de Diamant
Inscrit le: 25 Mai 2007 Messages: 1260
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No show yet, but probably this summer. I have not seen any Fiero in shows around here, so, they will probably accept the Sombral sooner or later. I will enroll it as a Hot Rod being not stock.
Every wednesday evening, the local "antique cars club" gets together at the shopping center. I have been there few times to, but the Sombral is too young, not 25, so I can't join the club. |
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